Goldenland Standard Exterior Painting Procedure

Exterior painting is a huge job, it extends the life of your house, increase the value of your property and make it look like new again. Hire Goldenland with for the exterior painting with our high quality paint and careful and skillful painting to cover the house better and make it lasts longer.

Our House Painting Order

Goldenland’s best practices: We avoid alternating in direct sunlight. The paint dries too fast and we are more likely to get lap marks. We avoid painting on windy days. Again, the paint will dry too fast and blown dirt can stick to wet paint.

We have good brush techniques too. For brushwork, we use straight bristle brush as wide as each lap for large areas and a smaller angled brush for detailed work. To avoid lap marks, we work in sections small enough so the previously painted area stays wet until you can apply paint to the adjacent section. Most drips, runs and sags can be avoided by checking back on the work regularly and brushing out the areas before the paint dries. We work paint into areas where the siding meets doors, windows and corner boards. Also paint the lower edge of the siding to seal out moisture.

  • We will remove shutters, light fixtures, mailboxes and other items.
  • We repaint shutters before reinstalling cover foundation plantings and nearby shrubs with breathable canvas or cotton drop cloths not plastic.
  • We scrape and remove loose sections of paint; Countersink protruding nails; putty holes and caulk all joints;
  • We patch and prime bare sections of wood.
  • We paint officiants and fascia, cut in paint along soffits, corners boards, intersecting rockiness, windows and doors;
  • We paint siding from top to bottom; paint door and window trim, lay on paint thickly with two or three back-and-forth strokes.

When we are rolling:

Applying paint with a roller is an excellent way to cover large areas and textured siding quickly and efficiently. Paint pads work equally well. The key is to use a brush to work the paint into crevices and corners for thorough coverage.

  1. Place a gallon of paint and a roller screen into a large bucket. Load the rolling it against the screen until the roller is saturated and the excess paint is squeezed out.
  2. Lay the paint on with a roller, using moderate pressure until the paint no longer flows off easily. Cover 1/3sqm at a time.
  3. Back brush, working the paint into cracks and onto the bottom edge of shingles and siding with your brush. Then brush with the grain of the wood to smooth the paint.

Spray Painting

Spraying is a fast, efficient way of applying exterior paint. Masking off windows and areas you don’t want painted takes time, but once you’re set up, you can work twice as fast as with other methods. Again, hack-brushing to smooth the paint and work it into cracks and gaps is essential.

  1. Angle the gun upward on the first pass to cover the underside of each lap. The bottom edge of lap and cedar shake siding must be thoroughly coated to prevent moisture damage.
  2. Hold the gun at a slightly downward angle and apply the paint to the face of the lap siding. Keep the spray gun perpendicular to the surface as you work.
  3. Spray straight onto the surface on the final coat. Use a brush to work paint into any seams, cracks or openings.

Our Perfect Painting

  1. Lap onto window. When we paint window frames and munitions, let the paint lap slightly onto the glass. This helps keep moisture and condensation from working their way under the paint and damaging the wood;
  2. Paint casing edges. We paint the edges of window and door casings the same color as the siding. It looks great from the street and will save you tons of time. And keep a rag in your back pocket to wipe off excess paint from the face of window trim in order to avoid thick edges;
  3. Create crisp edges. We use a putty knife to press masking tape firmly in place to create crisp, sharp edges where two colors meet.

If an exterior paint job is to look good and last a long time, all dirt, grime and loose paint must be removed.” – Goldenland

Power tools can do some of the work, but a certain amount of handwork: scraping, washing and sanding, is almost always required. Specialized tools designed to shave the paint from lap siding and specialized chemical strippers, some with a paper backing that is applied to the painted siding, and then peeled off, are other, more expensive options to consider. Ridges where well-adhered existing paint meets newly scraped bare wood must be feathered smooth by sanding before you start painting.

We Remove Old Paint

  1. Pressure washers scour away dirt, grime and chalking, the powder left as paints deteriorate.
  2. The high-pressure stream will blast away loose paint.
  3. It can gouge wood and knock mortar from between bricks.
  4. We remove loose and flaking paint with a sharp steel, or carbide blade scraper.
  5. Pull in the direction of the wood grain and apply enough downward pressure with your other hand to strip paint, but not gouge the wood.

We Prepare and install Damaged Wood

  1. We dig out old loose or cracked caulk with a five-in-one tool or stiff putty knife. Rutting new caulk over old hardened caulk is doomed to early failure. Leave old caulk only if it’s flexible.
  2. We drive heads of protruding or rusty nails below the wood surface to secure siding, then fill hole with wood filler. Don’t sink nails in hardboard siding; moisture can enter the hole and damage the vulnerable siding core.
  3. We use a random orbital sander for fast removal of thin paint layers that are difficult to scrape. Start with 60 grit paper for rapid cut-ting on broad, flat surfaces, then 80- and 100-grit papers to smooth the surface.
  4. A heat gun softens paint makes it easy to remove with a putty knife. We set it to run no higher than 370° C if the paint contains lead. Wear protective gloves, goggles and appropriate breathing respirator.
  5. We seal the end grain of new or replacement boards with primer to keep paint from peeling at seams and butt joints. This may well be the most effective step you can take to prevent paint from peeling.
  6. We fill deep cracks and holes with two part resin. These resins are expensive, but bond to dry, sound wood, won’t shrink, are impervious to moisture and can be sanded and shaped like regular wood.

Exterior paint has a shorter lifespan than interior paint because the weather conditions directly impact it year round. It protects your house from the weather, sunlight and other elements, thus is prone to aging. Be on the lookout for these signs when considering a new exterior paint job:

  • Peeling paint will allow the rainwater to seep in and cause the wood to rot. If you don’t re-paint the surface soon enough, you will have very expensive repairs later.
  • Fading color is a sign that the paint has been affected by the direct exposure to sunlight and the pigments have started breaking down. Usually that side of the house is most faded, which gets maximum sunlight.
  • Long exposure to sunlight will also cause caulking to split and leave gaps in the paint. These cracks will again let water seep through and cause damage. The cracks will also lower the energy efficiency of the house.
  • Appearance of mildew means that the water seepage has caused this ugly blackish yellow growth to appear. This indicates that there are cracks and peels in the paint and even if you wash it off, it will grow back.
  • Chalky appearance of the paint and flakes falling off will give your house a very outdated look. It means your paint has started breaking down and does not have the strength to bear any more wear and tear.

Exterior Painting Condition and Surface Preparation

The temperature must be higher than 35°F and low moisture to help the exterior paint dry and set properly. Some paints dry too quickly when it’s hotter than 95°F and even that greatly effects how long the paint job will last. Too extreme direct sunlight can also cause the paint to blister and ruin the smooth finish in addition to drying the paint while you work, resulting in lap marks.

Places that have a humid climate will cause problems for the paint since the exterior may not be dry enough for the paint to adhere to. Never paint immediately after rainfall and allow the sunshine to dry out the wood or masonry for at least one whole day. Bear in mind that if you paint on a hot humid day, you might get dew at dawn, which will spoil your paint. Do not try to paint when it’s too windy because the wind will cause the paint to dry very quickly and might deposit dirt and dried leaves on the wet paint. The wind might hamper your efforts too and make it dangerous for you to remain on a scaffolding or ladder.

Remember that painting in adverse climates effects how the paint sets and in the long run it will impact the durability of the paint. Never paint when there are extreme temperature fluctuations during day and night, as the paint might not set properly if the temperature drops below cutoff at night. Just make sure that you check the weather forecast for the next two days before starting your project.


The preparation needed for the exterior painting project might take as long as the painting itself! This is because there are many things that can’t be moved, like plants and permanent installations in the garden. Follow the steps listed below to ensure that you are well prepared for the task ahead.

  1. Gathering Materials
    Review shopping lists found in this book and make your own list based on your project and its required materials. Consult the Buying Secrets for great deals and discounts. Set up ladders and scaffolding as needed for the job at hand. If you need to use an extension ladder, pad the end that leans on the house with carpet pads or old rags so you don’t scratch up your wall. A step ladder can be useful for soffits and high walls that don’t require an extension ladder.
  2. The Cover-Up
    Once it has been washed, you should cover or remove all the things that do not need paint or need to be painted in different colors, like shutters, trees and plants, downspouts, mailbox and light fixtures.
    Plants and trees that brush against the walls must be covered in a fabric drop cloth, tied up with rope, pulled away from the wall and then tie the rope’s end to a stake in the ground. If you think the plant or shrub is too close for comfort, then you can trim its branches that are brushing against the wall and are causing obstruction.
    It would be a good idea to remove the downspouts unless you want them matching your wall, and not the rest of the gutter setup. It is harder than it is worth to try to tape off downspouts and paint the wall behind them. Believe me, I’ve tried!
    Light fixtures can either be taped off or removed. Removing them will give you a more professional look, as it is very hard to get a perfect cut where the fixture meets the wall. The same goes for address or nameplates attached to the wall. Undoing 2 screws saves more time than meticulously taping things off and painting around them.
  3. Scrub It Down
    If the old paint is flaking, peeling or becoming powdery, it needs to be scraped, sanded or both. This is the toughest part because all the paint that has peeled, chipped or blistered must be scraped off. If there are only occasional flaky spots, a putty knife or wire brush might cut it, but if you have a big scraping job ahead, invest in a sizable, quality scraper. Please make sure that all plants are covered with tarp or drop cloth when scraping and wear a face mask and goggles for safety.
    If you are restoring a building that was built in the 1970s or before, then you will be dealing with lead-based paint. If you are scraping off paint that contains lead, then take extra precautions for the safety of the environment and your family. Lead is hazardous to your health and if you are not sure on how to get rid of it, then contact your local Environmental Protection Agency and consult them on how to scrape off the lead-based paint.
    Once you are done with the scraping, you will have bald patches without paint and patches having smooth paint. The boundary between the two patches will be very rough and will need your attention. All the glossy surfaces must be sanded because the gloss will lead to peeling later on and scraped paint has to be smoothed out with sandpaper or an electronic sander. This sanding process will give you a surface to which the new paint can adhere very well. Personally, if I have a job that requires sanding, I just prime the whole surface instead of sanding it. This is not a huge investment and saves a ton of time.
    Wash the walls thoroughly in order to remove any traces of dirt, grime, grease, cobwebs, pollution deposits and mildew. You should make a solution of detergent with water in a large bucket and use brooms and brushes for hand-cleaning the surface. In case the mildew is very stubborn, use either a fungicide or chlorine bleach to scrape it off because it will cause the fresh paint to not adhere to the wall. It is best to use some sort of mildew-resistant paint for the new coat, so that the mildew doesn’t come back.
    If you want the cleaning done quickly, then you could try water blasting over the surface. This process involves using an attachment in front of your water hose that will cause the water to come out at very great pressures. This method removes all dirt and other particles if used properly but if you do not follow the user manual, you might end up peeling off sound paint, shattering glass windows or even cause cracks and split open shingles! So be careful with this cleaning method and try to wear eye protection and proper apparel. Sometimes even water blasting might not remove the stains on the surface, so it’s best to scrub them off with a handheld brush.
  4. Smooth It Out
    Fix gaps, cracks and holes. Old caulk that has detached from one of the surfaces must be dug out and re-caulked. Patch up cracks and fill gaps until you have a level surface. Don’t go cheap on caulk and other filler, as this will cost you a lot more money in the long run when it cracks a few years before the more quality caulk would, at only one or two dollars more per tube.
    Remove any rust on metal sidings with the help of rust removers or transformers. If you have any leaks in the gutters, drains or downspouts, this is a good time to repair those. Fixing these faults will help protect the new paint coat from moisture, helping protect your prize paint job.
  5. Prime It Up
    If you are painting over paint that is in decent condition, you do not need to prime the surface, but otherwise, it is essential to your paint job’s durability. Metal, wood, stucco, masonry and glass, all need different primers. On top of that any previously painted surface has even more varying requirements due to the kind of paint used previously. If you are painting over unpainted surfaces then primers won’t be so complex to decide. But the primers will change with the type of surface condition. The research and purchase of the right primers will pay off in the long run because it will help in preserving the paint that is used on top of it.
    Never slap primer onto a wet surface! Even the right primers on the right surface are bound to fail if moisture works its way behind the coating. Wait till the exterior is dry from the washing and cleaning, before advancing into the priming stage.

Various surfaces

Various surfaces on the exterior will need different kinds of considerations.

  • Brick Walls
    Replace any missing pieces of mortar and sand them to remove any residue or buildup. Let the bricks dry completely before priming them and painting them with either acrylic paint or an emulsion. These kinds of paints are forgiving to moisture and can withstand any expansion and contraction of the bricks.
  • Metallic
    Parts Railing and other metallic features often need special attention because they have more wear than your walls. After you have cleared the grease and rust from the metal, paint it with metal-specific spray paint or brush on an epoxy-acrylic or aluminum paints too. Using an oil-based primer will help ward off rust.
  • Siding
    Vinyl siding can painted with acrylic and applied using brushes or rollers. It is advised to paint it horizontally – one line at a time. You will first have to clean between the lines to remove all traces of mold, mildew and grime. When dealing with wooden clapboards and shingles, you have to really get into the joints and to the door and window casings. Acrylic paints and enamels with high gloss or semi-gloss finish both work well.
  • Fences
    A fence looks great on the perimeter but it needs to have a great coating of paint to withstand all the weathering and still look good! If they are metallic then remove the rust and repaint it. If wooden, wash and clean to remove all dirt, bird droppings, cobwebs and grease. Then scrape and sand flaky or loose paint. Smooth out the wood and repair any boards that are loose or damaged. Then prime the fence and let it dry.
    Paint each board starting at the top and working down. This helps minimize runs. Have a drop cloth on the ground to protect from paint drips and to keep your brush from getting dirty when you reach the bottom.
  • Concrete
    Garage floors become very unattractive over time with all the grease and motor oil stains. So when painting the concrete floor, first you must clean the surface with the help of a tough degreaser. Allow it to dry for a couple of days before painting with either a tough enamel or epoxy-acrylic paint.
  • Shutters
    Shutters can be tricky because you have to paint each of the slats to get a beautiful cover to your window. It is easier to remove them and spray paint them to get even distribution of paint and cover all crevices. But if they can’t be removed, use a sash brush or angled brush to cut into each individual slat. Avoid dark colors on shutters since they absorb heat.
    Cutting into Edges: Edges like window trim and doorframes will need attention. If the edge has two colors meeting, then let the first color dry before applying the second color (like painting the door frame first and then painting around it later on). Start from the uppermost corner by gently pushing a loaded sash brush into the corner and drawing the brush downward. The best way to cut into an edge is to hold your brush like a pen and use the narrowest brush possible. The sharper your edges are, the neater your result will be.
  • Doors and Windows
    It is best to paint the doors and windows early in the morning, so that they are dry by the time you close them at night. The best way to paint doors and windows is to wash, scrape and sand if necessary, then prime them. Flat doors can be painted with a roller while ornate doors need to be brushed.
    Doorknobs are best if removed. You can get away with taping them off, but it always looks better if they are just taken off. Do not quit painting until the entire door is finished and make sure you do not apply too much paint because the door might not fit in its frame due to paint buildup. Do not paint hinges, as this will gum them up and restrict movement.

Painting the Roof

Corrugated iron roofs can be painted but need thorough cleaning and degreasing first. You can use a spray gun to get the best results in the shortest time because it makes easier to cover more area and get in between the joints. Never use a spray gun on a windy day because the wind will carry the paint particles to your neighbor’s homes. You need to select the paint according to the type of roof you have because enamels work well on iron roofs while acrylics work well on masonry.

When dealing with cast iron rooftops, you will need to prime it after cleaning because you need a very strong base for the paint to adhere to. Start from the top of the roof and paint small sections in the downward direction. Follow the direction of the ridges in the iron. In order to keep a wet edge, go back to the top of the section and paint the sheet adjacent to it.

Exterior Walls

Pre Painting

  1. You must always do the repairs before doing any painting. The most common problem with exterior walls, particularly old constructions, is cracks in the wall.
  2. Don’t apply putty or filling compound when you are painting the exterior surface. Fill up the cracks with a 1:3 sand mixture and cement.
  3. Check all external drainage pipes for leakage or masking. Check the roof always. Look for cracks close to the edges. Water-proofing makes the paint last longer.

Surface Preparation

  1. Give 35-45 days for curing for newly plaster. surfaces before painting.
  2. Do ensure that there is no dust, grease or any loose material.
  3. Get rid of algae or fungus growth by brushing it vigorously with a wire brush.
  4. Clean it thoroughly with a bleaching powder solution in water. Filter the solution and apply with a sponge or brush). You should be particularly careful while doing this on the top of the awnings, sunshades, and other horizontal surfaces because water can accumulate here.
  5. Sand previously oil paint. surfaces thoroughly.

Spread the word. Share this post!