The Henderson Valley farm old house painting work is a major renovation painting. Exterior needs water blasting, stripping, proper gap filling, sealing then 3 coats of paint. Interior is complete new gib stopping, plastering and painting. It took in total about 4 weeks.
This is a case to show you our perspective customers how do we paint an old house. These rules might apply when it comes to your house painting, no matter which painter is doing it for you, hopefully, it could be us:)
When the paint has disappeared to such an extent that the surface of the siding is rough and full of minute sun cracks, the dry and porous will absorb three times as much oil as will be required to cover the same extent of surface, were the siding new and just planed; indeed the absorbent capacity,’ of such weather-beaten lumber is so great, that the dry grain of the timber will absorb a large proportion of the oil and leave the paint on the surface, where it will shortly dry into a powder that the storms will remove in a comparatively •brief period. The grand object in covering the surface of the siding with paint, is to protect the grain of the wood from getting soaked with water, as the grain expands every time water is applied to it, and contracts, forming cracks on the surface, whenever it has an opportunity to become dry.
These are the conditions and difficulties to be met; the object will be to cover the surface of the old boards with durable paint, at the cheapest possible expense. If good oil paint is applied, until the small cracks are all filled, and the porous grain of the dry wood will absorb no more oil, a coat of paint will be formed that will wear almost an age. But the large quantity required would cost much more than most people care to expend in painting an old house when some cheaper material will subserve the same satisfactory purpose. The idea is to fill the porous and cracked surface with a cheap material that will prevent the oil from separating from the paint and entering the wood. It is not essential to the durability of the siding, that the wood beneath the surface be saturated with oil, so long as the surface is properly protected with a thin coating impervious to water. Make a gallon of good paste, of wheaten or rye flour, then have ready a pound of cheap rice, and a half-pound of cheap glue, boiled to the consistency of very thin molasses, that may be poured out quickly, and stir the three ingredients together while they are hot, and apply it with a brush, so as to fill up all the sun-cracks, and cover the rough surface of the siding, thus forming a smooth foundation for the oil paint.
Interior Framing, many need to be adjusted and repaired, most balance GIB boards to be removed.
Exterior general cleaning up and painting preparations
A larger quantity may be made with the same proportion of materials as we have indicated. The siding should be scraped clean and smooth; in case moss has collected on the surface, then sizing sufficient to fill the cracks should be applied with care, while warm, by some person who will lay it on smoothly. In case it is daubed on too thickly, a heavy scale will be liable to peel off. Cover the coat of sizing immediately with good oil paint. A few gallons of such sizing, costing only a few dimes, will save more than fifty dollars in painting a building and will effect a satisfactory purpose.
After basic exterior painting: Gib stopping, plastering, interior painting;
How do we paint the old doors
In this case, we painted the old front doors, bedroom doors, cabinet doors, all are painted the same way. The door was properly prepped: sand glossy paint lightly by hand with 80- or 50-grit sandpaper, brush paint dust away, and we checked that all peeling paint is scraped and sanded off. We followed this sequence of painting steps for best results.
- we wrapped masking tape around doorknobs, hinges, and other hardware not easily removed. Remove metal doorknob plates, air brakes, door knockers, and doorbell buttons. Place a drop cloth under the door. With experience, we found that brush paints twice as fast and can be used nimbly; when we get into tight corners with it, we simply turn it sideways so only a portion of the bristle mass touches the surface.
- We painted the doors in the sequence.
Start with the top panels, to paint their mouldings and borders against the bristles. Then paint the panels themselves by brushing in several directions to spread the paint; smooth by brushing with the wood grain.
Next paint the frame boards between the panels.
We applied the paint across the wood grain, and then smooth the paint with the grain. This step takes some care but is essential because paint that runs against the wood grain will create a messy, checkerboard effect. the direction of the grain of a typical door’s components. The trick is to change brush stroke direction where boards meet at right angles. To make a sharp edge where they meet, place the bristles flat on the very end of board 5 and draw the brush away from board 8, toward the centre of the board.
- The door edges have painted the colour of either face to be consistent: an edge is one colour.
- Finally, we did everything that surrounds the door itself: mouldings, lintel, jamb, and threshold.
- Then we check for paint drips. Paint often accumulates in the panel corners and begins to drip down the frame boards. Smooth away drips with your brush. We kept the drop cloth under the drying door for at least an hour.
- Finish up by removing the masking tape and replacing hardware.
We did not spray doors because we have only a few to paint, because of the time required to set up the spraying system and getting the doors outside. We hammered the pins out of the hinges, label the door’s location, and place the door on an outdoor plank-and-drop-cloth system.
Floor treatment, fixes, preparation, sanding and painting again. Toilet, multiple historical layers:) Rusted nails, staples, hard glues, vinyl, a hard floor sanding preparation job. A few days working on a small area, trying to remove the nails one by one properly, or to polish them away.