How to professionally paint an interior room

How to professionally paint an interior room

Now for the Main event: You’re about to embark on a money saving adventure, by following my directions.

Just think, if you hire a painting contractor to paint a room, it can cost you on an average $300.00. If you hire a contractor to paint several rooms, you may be saving hundreds of dollars, depending on the scope of work, and how many colors used, etc. Now, begin saving money.

First, I’ve tried to cover all possible situations you may encounter, as well as all features. I want you to to complete your project successfully.

So let’s begin. Usually a homeowner wants the ceiling to be white along with the baseboards, jams, and door (s) all in a semi-gloss, or satin finish. Then the walls usually painted in a color, making your finished project a showcase. Then if you so desire, accent colors may be applied last. I’ve covered all the techniques needed for the above. If you are not painting your ceiling, just skip that feature and move on.
Preparation is very important, take the time to do it right. This is an important part of the project that will make your rooms look professionally done.

Preparation of the Room itself

First the Obvious: Remove pictures and stuff hanging on the walls. If you want to hang your pictures in the same places after the project is complete, then do not remove the picture hangers, just paint around them and on them with a brush. Be careful you don’t create a drip or two doing this, so be sure to double check these areas after a few minutes and feather out any drips.
Next patch pin holes if any, with Dap fast’ n’ final lightweight spackling. Patch them using your finger, just fill the hole and clean any excess off the drywall around the hole. Only use a putty knife for larger holes, again clean off excess around the patch, so you don’t have to sand anything on the drywall.

Next, get any old paint bumps and lumps off your walls by sanding. Use 100-grit sandpaper , on a pole ,mounted in a drywall sanding handle, or on a sanding block if you prefer.

Get yourself a good caulking gun and 1- 2 tubes of Painter’s caulking. Cut the tip of the caulking tube off but just enough to allow the caulking to come out once applied through the caulking gun. You can always slightly cut the tube end again if you think a bigger amount of caulk should be used, just experiment and you’ll figure out what is best.

It’s important to cut the caulking tube end at a 45 degree angle, because that makes it easier to run your bead along the jams and baseboard. To make your project look complete and professional, you need to caulk the jams and baseboard especially if they are missing any caulking.

Apply your caulk to the outside edge of the jams at an angle covering the cracks or gaps followed by using a moist rag along the caulked area right away to smooth out the caulk. You can get the same effect by using your finger once you figure out a technique. Just be careful not to overload the areas so a large amount of the caulk is on the connecting drywall. You can caulk the small gaps on the face of the jam too, were the top jam trim board meets the 2 vertical trim pieces of the jam right there at the door opening. Apply just enough to cover and wipe off excess with your moist rag.

Caulk the gap between baseboard and the drywall walls using the same method mentioned above. Caulk the crack (s) where 2 baseboards meet in the corners, usually a vertical area. Your on your way to achieving the professional look. Once the caulking is dry, taping and masking come next.

Using 1.5 masking tape, by running the tape along your walls. If it’s over carpet, make sure it covers the carpet, along the baseboard or wall, to prevent paint onto the carpet. Pull back the bottom of the carpet adjacent to the baseboard or wall and tape over the carpet. See picture below.

For hardwood flooring, just butt the tape up against the lowest point of the baseboard to cover your floor. If there is a gap under the baseboard between the flooring and baseboard, try to get the tape slightly into the gap. Your goal here is to protect the flooring from paint. Take about 1 foot of masking tape in your hands stretching out the tape and applying it against the lower area of baseboard starting at one end working to the other end so no flooring, carpet or wood, is visible. All you should see is the masking tape along the carpet or flooring. See pic below.

Once all walls are taped in this fashion, lay down the plastic on top of the existing masking tape you just put down on the flooring. Then just mask the plastic onto this tape. You can use regular masking tape if you wish.

Note: Get a good quality brand roll of masking tape to hold the plastic onto the existing tape. Once done you now have your carpet/wood surface completely covered over by plastic.

It is best to have a tarp to lay in the room for walking into another room, because any drips on the plastic tarp from the ceiling or walls will not dry right away on plastic. This can lead to tracking paint into another room. You might want to tarp your exit to the adjoining room or hallway to avoid tracking paint. If you have furniture in the room, cover the furniture with plastic or cloth to protect it. Just use common sense, by imaging what could happen.

I’d like to quickly summarize all the steps for you, before actually starting. This ensures that nothing is missed. So, here goes;

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