Howick Botany house kitchen, laundry and toilet rooms plastering and painting works. This is a renovation painting job. The previous painter could not do dry wall repair, plastering and sanding works. This is why we took over only from half completed.
We fixed all the damages, plastered smooth the major uneven surface, then we had to plaster the areas three times with a last time fine plastering and sanding to achieve smooth and even flat wall and ceiling surface so after painting, people do not recognize that they walls and ceilings are completely repaired or replaced.
These are the beginning of what they were:
It basically took one day for each layer of plastering. Before the next layer we scratch and sand off the major sticks and marks then wait until the second and third coats dry for sanding. Gib wall plaster sanding is not a pleasant job, most trade people try to avoid that. As capable painters are are not able to run away from these kind of sanding and plastering jobs, especially we are serving most of the restoration and renovation house owners.
These are the first coat of plastering:
A dome shape door which was sealed.
Bathroom corner fixed.
Final touches: Even after the whole painting works, we constantly need to go back one more time for the so called “final touches”. We make sure that we take utmost cares to finish all painting parts but it’s not avoidable that other people like electricians, cabinet installations, plumbers will do some extra damages on the wall and here and there during their repair or installation jobs.
It’s a good practice that we always save at least half a bucket of top coat paint to achieve a satisfactory final painting result.
Couple of points for using a sheen or flat paint
Ceilings are usually painted a light ,or white color. Ceilings can be painted in a flat finish, or the one, I prefer, an eggshell. Usually the jams and baseboard are in a semi gloss white (light color), or satin,. The walls, in a color different from the woodwork in a flat or eggshell finish.
If your choice for the walls, is flat, get a scrabble flat , for washing off marks. But realize, repeated scrubbing of the wall for marks works for just a few sessions. In time, you will have to touch up these areas with paint. That’s another reason to use an eggshell or possibly a higher sheen. A sheen in the paint is great for washing off most marks caused by kids and dogs. It makes it easier to broom off ,or vacuum those pesky spider webs.
For Baths, Kitchens, jams and doors, I recommend a 100% acrylic latex semi Gloss or satin. For walls and ceiling I prefer eggshell. If you are painting your walls and baseboards the same color, then use the eggshell on both, if that is your choice.
“One major difference between DIY and professional painters is how we appriciated the concept and practice of primin.g” – Goldenland
Priming is a term many homeowners don’t understand. It means applying a special paint to bare wood or metal so that subsequent coats of paint adhere better. Only the sanded spots are primed, and the painted shingles are not primed at all. The final coat of paint, of course, covers all of the siding. Therefore, “painting” is really two distinct steps:
- applying primer paint to bare wood.
- applying finish coat paint to the whole surface.
If you have sanded anything to bare wood, indoors or outdoors, you must apply a primer before using paint. Why primer instead of regular house paint? Because primer contains less pigment, sinks in better for a more adhesive grip, and dries to a slightly granular texture. This rough surface allows subsequent paint coats to improve their grip on the wall, so that they are less likely to peel in the future.
Primer is always the first coat of paint put on unpainted surfaces, and thereafter only paint is applied. Use an oil-based primer for bare wood, a rust-inhibitive primer for metal, a transparent ma-sonry sealant for brick and concrete, and a latex sealer for new drywall and plaster.
To repeat, do not prime already-painted surfaces. An existing coat of flat paint provides an adequately rough texture for your new coat to grip; glossy paint should be roughed up in the prepara-tion stage by hand sanding to take the sheen out and to create the tiny ridges and bumps to which the new paint can adhere.
Do not use primer for your finish coat. It lacks the color, sheen, and weathering qualities of paint. Applying primer over paint will not damage a paint job, but neither will it match the longevity of paint. Apply primer just as you apply paint: smooth with the wood grain, and use as much as the sur-face will hold.
Primer is usually white. This can cause a color consistency problem if your final coat of paint will be a dark color the final coat may not completely cover the underlying white primer, leaving a streaked and irregular appearance. So, have your primer tinted the approximate color of the final coat. Your paint shop will be able to do this for you.
At this point, you should be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel! All the prep work is complete, you know when to use masking tape and drop cloths, and you understand the difference between priming and painting. It’s now time to apply the final coat of paint.
Use of Primers
If you painting over a neutral color, no need to prime. If you are painting over a dark color or bright color, please use a primmer sealer such as a Kilz or a recommended primer. Why? The primmer will help to seal out the dark/bright old colors. Sure, you can cover over a dark color or bright color with multiple coats of finish paint. However, primer will save you money limiting the amount of finish coats you will have to apply. Summary: Using a primer for the above conditions will lessen the number of coats needed to finish the wall.
- Always check the surface for a, water seepage or dampness.
- Solve the seepage problem at the source. You might have to repair leading pipes or cracks.
- Remove any loose plaster from the wall. Tap the walls to check for loose plaster. You’ll know if there is a hollow sound. – Fill up all cracks. Repair any broken plaster
- Give adequate time for curing 7 to 21 days depending on the extent of plastering. When you do re-plastering, give adequate time for drying and stabilizing.
- Give adequate time so that the newly plaster. surface can mature. Popping of plaster can be solved during painting.
- Remove paint flakes and loose particles. Scrape with sandpaper to dry the surface and remove dust, dirt or grease. -Remove previous coatings, powder distemper or cement paint. You must also remove earlier coatings of synthetic emulsion paints or oil, even if the condition is good.
- Get rid of flak. or crack. paint completely.
- You’ll have to treat affect. areas separately. Make a 5-10% solution of bleach powder in water and apply on affect. areas with a sponge or brush. Wash with clean water after 8-10 hours. Give it time to dry.