The house is under re cladding from plastering exterior to weather board exterior; We are contracted for all interior works. There will be multiple damaged parts fix up before the interior painting works start, plus the windows are all to be replaced. 1/3 of the jobs could be wall paper stripping and fixing plastering. After those things the interior wall will be properly partly plastered, sanded and primed.
Cracking and peeling. If paint is coming off the walls or trim, then it means your paint coat has exceeded its lifetime. If it has only been a few years since the last paint job, it means you need a better quality paint job this time!
Sometimes your walls will look slightly white if they have been painted in a color other than white!) and will leave a chalky residue on your fingers if you touch them. This indicates that the paint has started to break down into powder and the surface will soon need a new coat of paint.
If the wood in the floors, doors, windows, trims and walls is showing signs of rotting, then the paint has definitely stopped preserving it. It means it is time to replace that part of the wood and re-paint the whole place to prevent the rot from spreading.
If your white walls are a few years old and they have frequent scuffs or marks where hands touch often, you will more than likely not be able to touch up only those areas. Over time the paint slightly ages and changes tint, so even if you have some leftover paint from the same paint job, it will not blend with the current paint perfectly. If this is the case, you’ll probably need to paint the whole room or house again.
If you recently purchased a house and discovered that the previous owner used low quality paint, then it would be best that you redo the paint before it shows any of the before mentioned signs. Sometimes even new homes are painted with cheap paint, just to keep the painting costs low. It does not sound fair but you have to paint it all over again to preserve the beauty and age of your home. Its more efficient to do before you move all your things in, then wait 2 years to find out that the situation is more urgent than you thought.
Large Cracks and Splits
The damage is large we use joint tape to give support to the drying drywall compound. The tape does this by distributing the weight of the compound over a larger area, reducing the likelihood that the dried compound will split along the original crack. After filling the wall’s wound, we press a piece of tape into the wet compound, directly over the crack. We make sure that no air bubbles are caught under the tape.
Holes in Drywall
First we dig out all loose drywall pieces with a molding scraper and a putty knife. Cut a piece of window screen wider than the hole. Gib board compound takes too long to dry for this, plastering compound dries in only 30 minutes. We then smooth it for cracks and dents, and allow it to dry. Then we have to apply second and third coats, keeping the string taut as you press new plaster into the hole. Plastering compound is harder to hand sand than drywall compound, so we try to smooth the final coat.
A hole greater than the aboce are filled with a piece of gib. Water damage also may necessitate replacing a section of soggy drywall. We cut a patch of gib, making it larger than the hole. We use a straight-edge to keep lines straight.
We place this patch over the hole. It covers the hole completely. With a pencil, we trace the perimeter of the patch on the wall. The pencil line is away from the hole at all points, then to cut out the damaged area. The hole is cut larger on our side. This keeps the drywall patch from falling through the wall into inside.
Once the beveled hole were cut out of the wall, we sculpt the edge of the patch to fit the hole. It was perfectly flush with the wall. The error will show through the soon-to-come coat of paint, a sure sign that many other painters tried to fix the wall. By hand sanding at sticky points, we get a piece that’s too large to fit like a glove. Then we compound the joints for cracks and dents.
- Gathering Materials
make a case supply based on the project and its required materials. Set up ladders.
- The Cover-Up
move the furniture out of the room; cover kitchen with drop cloths and plastic sheets. We cover the floor because we don’t want to scrub any paint stains later on. Canvas drop cloths, overlapped a half foot on the edges. The drop cloth easily sustains any splashes and accidental spills. We use masking tape to cover trim, baseboards, electrical panels and anything that cannot be removed from the surface. See this photo below:
Scrub It Down
Clean all surfaces to be painted. Oil, dirty hand marks and greasy stains will hinder the paint’s adhesion to the surface. You could use any appropriate surface cleaners or simply prepare a solution of detergent in water and clean the surface by rubbing with a sponge. If the grime is tough then use a heavy-duty cleaner for removing it completely.
Smooth It Out
Smooth out all surfaces. A bad painting surface will result in a bad paint job. “Bad” includes flaking, peeling, cracking, and anything less than a smooth, even surface. This means you have to: caulk any seams, gaps and cracks; scrape off any chalky paint and level any unevenness with sandpaper; and patch up any holes with spackling/drywall compound. You will have to inspect these damaged portions before you make your shopping list since you have to decide which caulking and spackling products are needed. The smooth surface ensures fluid movement of rollers and brushes and it ensures that the finished coat will look good.
Some people might think by doing it on your own you probably save some money. It’s no necessarily true. You probably end up spending the same amount of money with poor quality and many tools you won’t use any more in the end, not to say the waste of your time and the hardness, the failing of failure instead of accomplishment.
Goldenland painters have been painting over drywall for years, sometimes it feels like centuries to me. We show up with an acrylic interior paint and apply it over the existing paint while getting great results. In essence we have been priming the walls, with the first coat and then the second. That’s how we get lasting results. It’s also a matter of using a good quality brand of paint. “You don’t have to use an all-in-one primer.”
Prime It Up
Priming is essential in three cases: if the surface you’re painting on has never been painted before, if the surface smells due to pets or smoking, or if the paint currently on it is prone to heavy flaking, peeling or cracking. If you paint without priming and on a wall with many spackling corrections, then the patches will come out with different sheen due to difference of material of the spackle. Every surface has its own kind of primer and it is better to buy the right type to get optimal results. Let the primer dry in the recommended time on the can before proceeding. Many people think that two coats of paint can be substituted for priming, but since primer is thicker and has better adhesion, one coat of primer and one coat of paint is much preferable.
Once you have followed the four steps you are good to go! Firstly, mix up the smaller cans of paint in a large paint bucket to get a uniform color and a ready supply of paint. Paint mixers are not infallible, and if one single bucket is mixed improperly, you could end up with a section of your house that has a slightly different tint.
If the paint needs thinning or a solvent for mixing, then prepare the paint according to the instructions given in its user guide. You will be using different techniques to paint the walls and surfaces, so try to use them properly for professional results.