If time, weather and window design allow, remove the sashes, the frames that hold the actual glass from the window frame, as well as operating hardware, so you can paint as many edges and surfaces as possible. Sash removal is fairly easy with most glide-by, casement and newer double-hung windows. Older double hung windows are usually easier to paint in place.
- Paint the dividing munitions or grids, then the window sash outer frame. Leave a hairline of paint overlapping onto the glass to seal out moisture and condensation that could cause paint to peel.
- Alternate the positions of the sashes. Paint the area where the two sashes meet and as many other edges as you can reach. Work the sashes up and down a few times to keep them from sticking.
- After painting the grids and sash frames, move on to the casing and finally the sill and apron. Don’t paint the metal channels in the window tracks. Lubricate channels with silicone spray after the paint has dried.
Whenever possible, remove a door from its hinges so you can easily access the bottom and top edges for painting. Remove hinges and hardware to help the job go quickly and smoothly. Laying a door horizon-tally across a pair of sawhorses, or 2x4s laying on the floor, helps minimize drips and runs.
- Spread paint on the inner panels first; then work outward. Some people prefer to apply the paint quickly with a roller and then work it into corners and around moldings with a brush.
- Smooth out the paint in long sweeping strokes, mimicking the original direction of the wood grain. Make certain to paint top and bottom edges to seal out moisture that could cause the door to warp.
- Door faces and moldings should match when the door is closed. Paint the hinge edge the same color as the adjacent visible door face; latch edge matches the side of door, not visible opening into the room.
When painting stair treads and risers, purchase a paint formulated for high-use areas. Balusters and handrails are best painted with an easy-to-maintain, high gloss enamel paint.
Handrail Baluster Newel post
The painting order for stairs starts with the balusters, newel post, and handrail. Then, beginning at the top and working down one step at a time, paint the treads, risers, and stringer on one side of the stairs, leaving the other half open for traffic. When the paint is dry, start again at the top and work on the other half of each step.
Twice as Good
Since the centers of most stairways get twice as much wear and tear as the outer edges, apply twice as much paint to this area. Paint the right two thirds of each tread, then when the paint is dry, paint the left two thirds. This way the center area gets a double coat.